Showing posts with label Island. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Island. Show all posts
Saturday, 25 March 2017
Adventures on Naked Lady Beach Thomas Island
7-11 July 2016
With only a short 20 nautical mile hop to Thomas Island on the cards for the day, we had no need to get up in the dark for a change and had a relatively leisurely breakfast before getting underway from Brampton Island.
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| Goodbye Brampton Island. Thanks for the calm stay. |
The wind was predicted to blow in the mid to high teens from the south so we expected to have a fairly deep downwind sail until clearing the eastern headlands of Tinsmith Island so we raised the full main, poled out the genoa and away we went. By the time we rounded the island and came to port, which should have provided a better wind angle for the run to Thomas Island, the wind had swung to the south east so the status quo was maintained. Once again a fair sized following swell was running and, with the wind strengthening a little further, we were a little over powered with the full mainsail up. We would have benefited by furling in to first reef but with such a short way to go we put up with the ride.
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| The Smiths lay between us and Thomas Island |
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| Rocky islets like this one are common in the area. |
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| Approaching Thomas Island sailing deep downwind with the headsail poled. |
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| Brampton Island to Thomas Island – 20.2 Nautical Miles – 3 Hours 56 Minutes Average Speed 5.1 Knots Max Speed 7.9 Knots |
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| Thomas Island is part of the Lindeman Group, the southern edges of the Whitsunday Islands. |
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| The anchorage was beautiful and provided good protection from the south east winds. |
Considering the established SE swell running, the anchorage at Thomas Island proved far more protected than we had expected from reading the write up in Alan Lucas’s pilot guide. We were very happy with how little of the swell was making it into the bay when we anchored up in just under seven metres of water which would put us in four and a half at the low that night. We were now officially in the Whitsunday Islands. Fortunately for us though, Thomas Island is outside the area that charter boats are permitted to go and there were only three other boats in the anchorage with us. It was school holiday time and, judging by the charter companies radio scheds we heard, the more northern anchorages would have been very, very busy.
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| Our Dreamtime at Thomas Island photographed from the bow of Wai Whare |
Another pleasant surprise for us was finding our friends Geoff and Daphne on the ketch Wai Whare in the bay. They had been great neighbours in Port of Bundaberg Marina last year when we were stuck there for a month getting our transmission rebuilt. We had a relaxing afternoon on board their boat catching up on what we each had been up to in the intervening period. Later we enjoyed a typically magnificent Whitsundays sunset.
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| Stunning Thomas Island sunset |
We had no mobile phone reception in the anchorage but were again able to get internet by putting our Wifi dongle in a water proof phone case and hoist it up the mast. See our blog about this trick at A simple way to extend your Wifi range afloat. We were also able to get TV reception so Karen was once again glued in front of the screen picking up cooking tips watching Master Chef.
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| Wai Whare about to weigh anchor |
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| Heading ashore |
The following morning we waved good bye to Wai Whare as they were moving on to CID Harbour while we were spending the day enjoying more of Thomas Island. We went ashore on the well named Naked Lady Beach and had a wander in the sunshine.
The island is heavily wooded and making any inroads from the beach is a challenge however we discovered what appeared to be a trail leading up a dry creek bed at the back of the beach and went exploring. About 80 to 100 metres on we found a collection of flotsam hanging from trees and realised it marked where the obscure trail left the creek bed and headed off to the left. The rest of the trail was marked by all sorts of items hanging from branches and lead up to a gap in the islands hills and a tiny rocky inlet on the southern side with great views to the Smiths islands. It was well worth the short walk and we’d highly recommend it to any cruisers visiting this delightful anchorage.
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| We always try to obey any National Parks signs on the islands |
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| We are also strong believers in equal rights. |
The island is heavily wooded and making any inroads from the beach is a challenge however we discovered what appeared to be a trail leading up a dry creek bed at the back of the beach and went exploring. About 80 to 100 metres on we found a collection of flotsam hanging from trees and realised it marked where the obscure trail left the creek bed and headed off to the left. The rest of the trail was marked by all sorts of items hanging from branches and lead up to a gap in the islands hills and a tiny rocky inlet on the southern side with great views to the Smiths islands. It was well worth the short walk and we’d highly recommend it to any cruisers visiting this delightful anchorage.
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| The trail leaves the dry creek bed |
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| Trail marking Aussie style. |
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| The views back to the south made the walk well worthwhile |
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| Roughly the route through the bush |
We returned to Naked lady Beach where Karen spent some time sketching while Rob did a little more beach combing and enjoyed a dip in the clear water. We enjoyed our day so much we cancelled plans to leave the next morning.
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| Karen found plenty to sketch |
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| Mackerel Thai green curry fish balls for lunch back on board. Recipe at OUR GALLEY |
We decided to explore the middle of the three beaches the following day. Although we never found any trails to explore this time Karen did enjoy spending a morning working with her watercolours while Rob kicked back on the beach with a good book. He was then a very happy boy spending the afternoon watching the V8Supercars back on the boat.
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| A nice view of Our Dreamtime from the middle beach |
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| Book time for Rob |
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| Karen had the watercolours out |
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| Later she whipped up some boat made sausage rolls for sundowners. Such a talented girl. Recipe at OUR GALLEY |
Guess what! We were enjoying Thomas Island so much we decided to do it all again the next day.
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| The third of Thomas Island's beautiful beaches |
The pattern was set with a morning on the beach then lazy afternoon aboard and we saw no need to change it. Friends we’d made last year, David and Nerida arrived in the anchorage late morning and invited us for dinner on board their catamaran Sea Breeze. We were also joined by Greg and Sue off Sunshine for an evening of great food and lots of laughs. The social side of cruising is great fun.
We had originally planned just a two night stop at Thomas Island but here we were staying yet another day with a heavy morning schedule of doing absolutely nothing. We managed another visit to the beach in the afternoon. Greg and Sue then came over for sundowners and more merriment which was a great way to finish off a fantastic five night stopover at Thomas Island. There was a huge storm moving in from the great Australian Bight towards southern Australia which was going to push some heavy wind all the way up the east coast so it was going to be time to go in the morning otherwise we’d probably still be there.
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| Dodgy Iphone pic by David of Sue, Rob, Karen, Greg and Nerida on board Sea Breeze. |
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Wednesday, 15 February 2017
Green Island Blue Current
Formosa (Taiwan), Lu Tao (Green Island) and the Kuroshio (blue current)
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| Kuroshio |
Looking east from the road as we approached the town of Taitung on the southeast coast of Taiwan, the Philippine Sea appeared as concentric bands of color. Beyond the broad white ribbon of surf and foam the water appeared muddy grey, but a short distance farther offshore was another clear dividing line. Beyond that was dark blue. That, Jahfong explained, was the Kuroshio, or "Black Current", which runs north along the coast of Taiwan. In English, he added, it is called the Blue Current.
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| Fishing boats at Taitung |
We were bound for Ludao: "Green Island", which lies about 20 miles offshore.
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| Green Island from Google Earth. |
Although the ferries to more distant Orchid Island were already cancelled due to big seas, for now the Green Island ferries were still running. Jahfong took extra care cushioning and strapping down our three kayaks to the foredeck. In this weather nobody would be allowed on deck once we left harbor.
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| Getting ready for the ferry |
Having bounced across the current toGreen Island with no damage to the kayaks, Jahfong's next challenge was to strap them securely enough to a flat-bed truck for the journey to a small primary school by a tiny harbor where we would launch on our island circuit.
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| Island transport |
A timely launch next day was thwarted by our previous evening's visit to the grill. Or to be precise, by the green bottles of Taiwanese beer. Too many green bottles. "Don't mention the beer!" So we were late leaving.
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| The Philippine Sea |
The island is volcanic in origin, and the day was overcast. The black cliffs and jagged offshore rocks looked foreboding as we pushed our way through turbulent channels between sea stacks along the coast into the failing light of evening. The evening may have been somber but the water still glowed an incredibly deep dark blue!
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| Volcanic rock worn into an archway |
Jahfong knew of a small gap in the raised grey coral reef that rings the island; a gap we threaded to reach a calm pool with a shore of white coral sand.
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| Jahfong choosing a safe route |
Here, he explained, was the place the earliest settlers on the island made their home. In a valley cradled by steep cliffs and heavily vegetated slopes, and with spiky sea stacks offering a little protection from the full force of the ocean, it was a natural choice.
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| Youzihhu, site of early settlement |
Remains of buildings in the valley still have tiles on the roofs, pinned down by boulders against the force of typhoons, which occur about four times per year here.
On our way again the following day I was to experience the corners of the island. There is very little tidal range or any tidal flow here. However, the Kuroshio current is steady enough to produce the effect of a tide race around each of the main three points of the island that jut out into the Blue Current.
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| Taiwan Current Data |
With the current running constantly in the same direction, it would only take a little inattention at the north end of Green Island, and we could be on our way to Japan!
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| Yali |
Back at the little harbor by the school, I learned that Yali had just now become the first woman to paddle all the way around the island! Congratulations!
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| Jahfong and Yali. Blue water shielded from glare. |
Before returning to the Taiwan mainland I gave a slide presentation to the school... "Encounters", with some basic translation. The older children had prepared questions for me in English, which they read out to me, and I did my best to answer.
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| After the talk at the school |
Jahfong and Yali, visiting over the years, have offered the schoolchildren the opportunity to learn to kayak. The children in their final year then have the chance to kayak around the island with them in three stages, in tandem kayaks, missing out the sections with the strong current. It is very fitting that growing up on an island, they should have the chance to know it from the water as well as from the land. It has become something of a rite of passage and point of pride, an achievement valued by children and parents alike. And of course it is a very special kind of headmaster who has the confidence to support such an ambitious annual adventure.
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| Reflecting back on the ferry. Yali and Jahfong waving |
I felt sad to leave Green Island. There was so much more still to see. The ferry rushed out into the blue current, spraying white foam to either side and sending flights of flying fish skipping and gliding away across the water. Thanks Jahfong and Yali for planning such a fun adventure!
(Taiwan Kayak School)
(Taiwan Kayak School)
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